THE HAIR FORMER

The original note, as written at the time

An innovative solution to maintenance of African hair. After combing in the morning you apply this hair former once. Your hair can always maintain that shape the rest of the day. Iterations of this can be set to keep a particular form for months without any further application of the hair former. There might be even a version where the hair former can be temporarily turned off so that the shape can be changed.

Ongoing development

A solution for the maintenance of African hair: after combing in the morning, apply the former once, and the hair keeps that shape for the rest of the day. Iterations could hold a form for months without further application, and there could be a version where the effect is temporarily switched off so the shape can be changed.

The switch is the idea. Everything that holds a shape — a chemical relaxer, a weave, a loc — holds it until it is destroyed, and the destruction is a decision made in a salon, at cost, with consequence. A reversible hold changes the relationship between a person and their appearance from a commitment to a setting.

The chemistry is the hard part and it should be stated plainly. Making a hair configuration last for months and then releasing it cleanly, without damaging the shaft, is a materials problem that the cosmetics industry has avoided because permanent products sell better. A switchable product is a product you do not have to buy every month.

There is a real research programme here: reversible cross-linking, or a polymer that responds to a specific trigger — water, temperature, a particular rinse — and holds shape in between.

The social argument matters as much as the technical one. The labour of managing African hair is substantial, it is mostly borne by women, and it is invisible in every productivity calculation. Anything that reduces the daily hour without reducing the options is worth taking seriously.

The risk is that the same industry sells the switch as a premium and the permanent as the standard, which is what happened with every other convenience in this category.

Affordable, reversible, and no salon required. That is the brief.